The Palace of Hearts
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest
A Three-Part Series, By Senior Travel Editor, Brandi Brower
When a golden opportunity in life presents itself, you take it. You reach for the proverbial brass ring and grab it. If you get a chance to visit the Golden Triangle of Central Europe, you jump at it. An invitation to travel to three fabled capital cities —a triple threat of beauty, culture, and history —you say, "Yes, please." And you book your flight.
Budapest, Vienna, and Prague are all well-connected by efficient train routes, making them ideal for creating a seamless itinerary. These cities are also renowned for their architectural and historical offerings; forming a golden combination for a big adventure. The journey between them offers a unique opportunity to experience the diverse culture and history of Central Europe. Add in some luxury hotels and memorable cuisine, and you have a truly epic escape, which I will share in my Golden Triangle Series over the following three issues.
First stop: Budapest.
I pride myself on not doing any research on a city I'm arriving in. Some 'A-type' personalities may view that as irresponsible, but I like the 'Ahh-ha' moments of seeing something for the first time. Budapest doesn't disappoint. It is a stunner. The Hungarian capital is comprised of two distinct parts: the Buda side and the Pest side, with the winding Danube River serving as both the divider and the connector. The Danube is the longest waterway in the EU, stretching almost 1,800 miles through ten different countries. Of all the bridges in the city, the Chain Bridge is the oldest and most iconic suspension bridge, completed in 1849, featuring stone towers and four famous lion statues that punctuate the picturesque connector. What was once destroyed in WWII was later rebuilt, recently undergoing restoration completed in 2023. It stands as a potent national symbol of Hungary, representing both unity and resilience.
Buda, or the West Bank, is the hilly side of the city, featuring scenic views and old architecture, highlighted by Buda Castle and the Castle District. Pest, or the East Bank, is the flatter and more developed side, known for its lively nightlife, grand buildings, and the National Parliament Building, which serves as a significant landmark for that side of the river. Especially beautiful at night, when all the historical buildings on both sides of the river, along with their connecting bridge, are illuminated, Budapest looks magical.
As far as "Ahh ha" moments go, if the city of Budapest is magical, then my hotel is a masterpiece. Literally, my first stay on this Golden Triangle Tour is at the iconic Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace, and it is easily the most historically elegant accommodation that I have ever stayed in. The building was initially constructed as an office and luxury apartments for a prominent British insurer, Gresham Life Assurance Company, in the early 1900s. The company commissioned Hungarian architect Zsigmond Quittner to design a building that would showcase the company's wealth and influence, thereby establishing a strong presence during the heyday of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Purchased in 1999, the Four Seasons brought the hotel's Hungarian Art Nouveau style back to life with an extensive revitalization, restoring the gorgeous historical details. Not unlike the city itself, the five-star hotel combines the refinement of yesteryear with the modern amenities of today—a sight to behold.
You never get a second chance at a first impression, a famous idiom that Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace has nothing to worry about. Thoroughly impressed by the entryway and lobby with its design elements straight from the La Belle Époque period ("The Beautiful Era") or the "Golden Age" of European peace and prosperity. With the elaborate metalworks of proud peacocks in silhouette, as well as stained glass and mosaic creations, the domed ceiling at the heart of the hotel is a refinement of timeless beauty. The heart of the hotel is not only the lounge area below the dome, but also the heart motif purposefully placed throughout. The nickname "the palace of hearts" is a moniker given for the numerous hearts hidden in plain view as elements in the design—a declaration of love by the designer Zsigmond Quittner for a future resident of the palace. Discreet in design as not to distract, and yet, when they are pointed out by staff, above the elevator, part of the ceramic tiles, in the brass doors, among the stained glass windows, to name a few, you can't stop noticing.
The beautiful balance of old and new is everywhere. As I enter my room, one of 160 rooms and 19 suites, I'm struck by the wood-paneled alcove set back from the hallway, and an antique brass plate to the left, featuring a door buzzer and a slot for the magnetic keycard to be inserted—an unexpected design element. The parquet herringbone floor, high ceilings with accent stenciling, and the large window that opens up, offering a spectacular view of the Chain Bridge directly across the street, are a few standouts. The coffee station/mini bar, marble bathroom with a glass-enclosed shower and bathtub, are modern conveniences we've grown accustomed to, as is the infamous Four Seasons bed. But the little touches, the crystal ring holder on the glass shelving, the ceramic bath salts container with Gresham Palace in art deco font sitting on the edge of the tub, and sweet treats delivered daily to the room, with clever copy. My favorite was "Cube Your Enthusiasm," which included a bit of trivia about how a Hungarian visionary invented the Rubik's Cube. A confectionery block of different-flavored and colored cubes was used to replicate the six-sided enigma, a tasty surprise procured by Guest Experience Manager Ibrahim Bedran.
The excellence of the staffing should be of no surprise to anyone. It's another signature element that the brand raises the bar for others to attempt to meet. The concierge team, headed by Peter Buday, proved to be both professional and affable. The concierge area is attractive in its aesthetic, set up like a library with inviting coffee table books covering art movements and iconic Budapest. Framed, pre-war vintage posters adorn the walls, while comfy chairs and an oversized chess set round out the vibe. Levente and Balazs, two team members, are integral in planning a perfect itinerary to explore the 'Pearl of the Danube', lovingly referred to for its grandeur and elegance, like a precious pearl.
A traditional Hungarian dinner in the Jewish Quarter, at Ghetto Gulyas, was a first dip into the culture, featuring veal paprikash with baked curd and cheese noodles rolled in bacon. District VII was the perfect area to walk off our jet lag and check out the eclectic haunts of popular Budapest nightlife. Passing by the Budapest Eye, a Ferris wheel with 42 cabins, and a perfect vantage point to see the city, we stroll back to Gresham Palace.
Our first full day in Budapest begins with breakfast at the hotel's French eatery, KOLLÁZS. We sit outside to people-watch as we sip our fresh grapefruit juice and indulge in the variety of food options. Still, it's the European baked goods —chocolate brioche, fig Danish, pecan roll, and raspberry croissant — that prove difficult to pass by. The buffet offers the expected salads, fruits, cereals, and yogurts, as well as meats and cheeses, American fare items, and a selection of Hungarian foods in another section of the restaurant, if you're so inclined.
Sufficiently fueled for fun, we walk to our little neighborhood bike shop to pick up our reserved transportation for the day. The bike-friendly city provides access to several noteworthy streets and sites. The tree-lined boulevard, Andrassy Avenue, is home to the Hungarian State Opera house, luxury brand stores, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its elegant architecture. We pedal to the end, where we enter Hero's Square, and then onto City Park. A large, red-and-white striped hot air balloon permanently anchored to the ground rises high above the park below, carrying visitors in the basket for another vantage point of the cityscape. There are several attractions in City Park, including museums, the Szechenyi Medicinal Baths, the largest thermal bath in Europe, and Vajdahunyad Castle, where an agricultural market is being held on the garden grounds. An internal debate over whether to buy paprika or creamed honey from the local farmer, so I bought both. We stop for a well-deserved ice cream after our cycling efforts and return our bikes to the shop.
We walked over the Chain Bridge, which is definitely an Instagram moment, crossing to the Buda side. We made our way to the top of Castle Hill, rather than taking the easy route via the funicular. It was there that we saw several points of interest: The Royal Palace (Buda Castle), Matthias Church, Sándor Palace, and Fisherman's Bastion. We circled to the west side of Castle Hill and made our way to the downtown area of Buda for our dinner at Stand25, a Michelin guide restaurant. We sat with a bird's-eye view of the bustling kitchen, where I enjoyed fresh sourdough bread, a spin on Caesar salad with scallops and breadcrumbs, and a lovely main course of salmon on a bed of creamy polenta and green peas. Our final destination, we walked back over the bridge to the Pest side, meeting our captain and crew member at dock 9A, where we embarked on a private Venetian-style speedboat cruise up and down the Danube River. The 50-minute ride on the water provided a different perspective of the city lights as you passed along the Buda Hills, Castle Hill, the Parliament Building, and traveled underneath the Chain Bridge, all aglow. A day of exercise, excellent food, a night-time boat ride, a comfy bed - a good night of sleep guaranteed.
Weather doesn't always work in your favor, but thanks to the preemptive efforts of a skilled concierge team, who checked the forecast and had a plan for a rainy day, we were all set. To start, how about a cozy breakfast in bed, or near our bed, with room service? Our server, Zoltan, set up the favorable fare. One of us had a foie gras omelet that was apparently "Delightful" (it wasn't me). I enjoyed the avocado toast, yogurt, and berries. For the second day in a row, I savored the best fresh grapefruit juice I've ever had and a chocolate croissant. Sometimes rainy days are the best days.
Part deux to the perfect rainy day: The Spa. Budapest, also known as "The City of Baths," owes its name to its high concentration of thermal springs and a rich history and culture of grand bathhouses dating back to the Roman and Ottoman eras. The abundant, mineral-rich waters from the deep geothermal springs offer therapeutic health benefits, as well as relaxation and socialization, a cornerstone of Hungarian culture. We didn't have to leave our Gresham Palace to indulge in relaxation and health benefits; we just had to slip on our cozy Four Seasons robes and ride the elevator up to the top floor of the hotel. The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace offers a curated selection of treatments to rejuvenate your mind and body. Before my scheduled appointment with the therapist, I soak in the serenity with The Spa amenities. I swim laps in the infinity-edge pool, adjacent to three large floor-to-ceiling windows that offer ample light despite the gray day. The whirlpool features powerful jets, followed by the steam room, where eucalyptus oil is used, and concludes with a visit to the dry sauna. I end the protocol, lounging in a chair while sipping herbal tea.
Krisztina introduces herself to me and leads me into her treatment room. A native Hungarian and 20-year veteran of her craft, she shares that she'll be performing the Touch Of The Earth treatment on me, which consists of authentic Hungarian ingredients only. She assures me that I'll look and feel relaxed and glowing after the facial. Hungarians believe the secret to staying young can be found in the land itself. She explained to me that the Earth's crust is thinner in Budapest than anywhere else in the world. The rich minerals in the thermal waters have a toning effect on the skin. As Kristina performed the rituals, it felt like four hands/twenty fingers, working on my face with rapid, unique strokes. She assured me that I'd feel the effects of her talents days after the treatment. She gave me an incredible neck and foot massage while my mask was processing. The best I've ever had! There are facials. There are European facials. And then there are facials at the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace Budapest.
What could be more quintessential and cozy than an afternoon tea service in an amazing Art Nouveau lounge, in a European city, while it's raining? The Herend Afternoon Tea experience, made even more memorable by our server, Krisztian, who skillfully presents a three-tiered serving tray with tea cakes and savoury bites, as well as traditional scones, jams and clotted cream, and tea of choice served on the famous Herend Porcelain's hand-painted sets, live music via a baby grand is on an slightly elevated center stage, the pianist, as if on cue, plays softly "Once Upon a December" a beautiful piece that conjures up Anastasia and Russian Royalty imaginings. As if this day couldn't get any lovelier.
The rain tapered off, and we decided to take a stroll around the Pest side of the city, taking in lasting impressions of the side streets, statues, the historic metro trains clanging past, St. Stephan's Basilica, and the enormous Parliament building, the third-largest in the world, watching the many different-sized vessels cruising upon the waters of the Danube. As the sun begins to set, dipping down behind the silhouettes of the Castles on the Hill, we make our way back to the Chain Bridge in the heart of this city, to the stately edifice where Buda meets Pest, the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace.
On our last evening, we chose to toast the town at MÚZSA, the striking lobby bar, an interesting oval-shaped space with bar stools surrounding it, and the bartenders at its center. A modern interpretation of the Art Deco movement, this creation harkens back to the opulent age of the early 20th century, with gleaming brass and a mirrored finish, allowing guests to move freely around, adding to the dynamic theatrical atmosphere, with live music playing and the special drink menu currently dedicated to "Echos of the Muses," fusing artistic mixology with mythical storytelling, innovative concoctions that bring whimsy and spirit. My companion ordered a "Gloria" that had several smoke bubbles that beckoned to be popped, which we did.
Our last meal, we dined at the hotel's KOLLÁZS, a Michelin-recommended eatery. Its name in Hungarian means "collage", and reflects its varied and creative style: a collage of cuisines, combining French flavors and touches of Hungarian specialties. And a collage of offerings: it serves as a brasserie, bar, rotisserie, wine cellar, and patisserie all in one. We begin with a shared appetizer of Heirloom Tomato with French Goat Cheese, Olive Oil, followed by Lobster Bisque with Crème Fraîche. My main course, USDA Prime Sirloin, Béarnaise, and Homemade French Fries, was not adventurous but still outstanding. Our server, Mark, was skillful in deboning and plating my companion's selection of Roasted Sea Bass, with Lemon-Garlic Sauce, as we watched tableside. The Four Seasons' Head Sommelier, Gábor Becker, was knowledgeable about Hungarian wines and offered suggestions for pairing the white fish entrée as well as a Dry Tokaji, known for its sweet flavors of honey, apricot, and peach, to complement the dessert. Our dinner was so scrumptious that there was no need to end with dessert. The entire day was a collage of experiences all within the walls of the hotel: breakfast in bed, spa treatment, afternoon tea experience, drinks at MÚZSA, followed by dinner at KOLLÁZS. That's a rainy day to remember.
As I say goodbye to this grand hotel, how were the secret hearts that were instilled into this Gresham Palace by the architect and designer received? Did the resident he longed for know they were for her? Were they lovers, or was it unrequited love? If Budapest is known as the 'Paris of the East,' and Paris is known as the 'City of Love,' the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace is, by deductive reasoning, the Palace of Love. This hotel is a heartfelt love letter to the city of Budapest, where the glitter of this Art Nouveau masterpiece is resurrected, and the glow of a Golden Era remains.