Where East Meets Best
Four Seasons Kyoto
Where East Meets Best
by Jen Helmle
Confession time, Japan has never been a bucket list place for me; it hasn't been on my radar as a "have to see before I die" destination. But I decided to see what the hype was about when the country finally opened up for visitors, post-covid restrictions.
Japanese proverb: I no naka no kawazu, taikai o shirazu
*Translation: A frog in the well does not know the great ocean.
In other words, we must open up our minds to new possibilities. I was a frog stuck in a well and needed to hop across the Pacific to explore Japan's greatness.
A string of islands with approximately 1500 miles of mostly mountainous terrain is roughly the size of California. An estimation of California's population is 37 million. In comparison, this island holds approximately 87 million more people. The country has many hot springs, forests, beaches, beautiful landscapes, and natural wonders, and as I fly over the country to Haneda Airport, I'm also struck by how many golf courses I see. They like their links here.
Upon entering the country, I board the Tokiado Shinkansen, colloquially known in English as the bullet train, for my first destination. Japan started the high-speed train revolution in 1964 and remains at the top of the game with a speed record of 374 mph on the new magnetic levitation train. While that bullet is not ready for commercial use, I boarded the slower 200 mph Shinkansen bound for Kyoto. Despite the speed, I could still view the green countryside and quaint small villages, popping in and out of tunnels cut through the surrounding mountains.
Kyoto, which translates to "Capital City," was once the capital of Japan for over 1000 years. The country's capital is always where the emperor lives, and from 794 to 1868, the emperor resided in this beautiful valley surrounded on three sides by undulating hills. The old capital is known for its historical and cultural richness, home to numerous temples, shrines, tea houses, gardens, and traditional machiya wooden townhouses. The city is 1/3 the size of today's capital city of Tokyo, and even though it has all the modern-day amenities and luxury of a big city, its small-town charm shines through in its significant cultural vibe. Kyoto is one of Japan's best-preserved historical cities, home to 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites- intact palaces hearkening back to Imperial Japan's golden age.
Because history and culture are the heart of this city, established in the 7th century, it is no surprise to find that the Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto rests at the foot of a mountain in the scenic Higashiyama Temple district, tucked away at the end of a private drive lined with bamboo groves, nestled next to a 12th-century Shakusuien ikeniwa (pond garden.) The striking porte-cochere welcomes guests in the spirit of hospitality with the motif of traditional Japanese paper umbrellas. The handcrafted paper umbrellas have a delicate framework; in contrast, using steel and wooden beams, the roof of this unique courtyard is made by laying one "umbrella" on top of another, with the curvature of the rafters reminiscent of umbrella ribs. Beautiful.
Stepping inside the spare no-expense lobby, the view from the 30-foot-high expansive windows overlooking the property's focal point, an 800-year-old pond, and impeccably manicured gardens is impressive. The curated zen aesthetic is just what I was hoping for as my first introduction to this ancient culture. As a staff member kindly directs me during a welcoming property walk, I feel like I've gone back in time, as if a member of the Taira clan, perhaps the famous samurai warrior, Taira no Shigemori himself, would be standing on the once-stone bridge of his family's estate. Now, a tempered glass bridge arches over the remnants of the Heike heritage as I explore this secret garden. The narrow path creeps up and down, weaving past a stone Jizo statue, known as the guardian of children and travelers, and thought to have been there since the middle of the Edo era (1603–1868), I pass the tall century stone pagoda with nine levels, is symbolic of intellectual qualities, completeness, strength and nobility as well as an enhancer of wealth, career and luck. I feel some of that luck- to be here in this captivating world.
At the end of the stone path is the beautifully constructed teahouse, built chiefly of cypress wood from Kyoto. It is a charming structure on stilts over the Koi-filled ikeniwa (pond garden), used mainly for entertaining purposes. Four Seasons can host evenings in the Fuju lounge with champagne or the Hotel's original sake and lovely geisha performances or, in contrast, a cozy tea ceremony in the adjacent Shakusui-tei, immersed in the elevated art form of tea drinking. Kyoto is home to green tea. The spiritual beauty and traditional craft in this intimate and serene setting, instructed at a high level in preparing and partaking matcha by a tea master, is a memorable experience all guests should reserve.
Upon entering my guest room, the comfort and coziness envelop me, one of 180 rooms in the low-rise five-story structure. By cozy, I don't mean tiny; the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the centerpiece pond garden and the distant view of Kyoto proper are both expansive and spectacular. My meaning of cozy is the Japanese artistic touches juxtaposed with modern modalities; I feel at ease instantly. Like the public spaces, the guest quarters are current and contemporary aesthetics blended with Japan-infused artisan creations. Examples of the craftsmanship: washi-paper lamps, fusuma screens, urushi lacquerware, and air-tight tea canisters, crafted locally for six generations of the Yagi family who have owned the company since 1875, as well as exclusively developed textiles in all rooms and throughout the Hotel, by local kimono curator Hosoo, established in 1688, all bring refinement to the space.
Behind the sumptuous bed with the lavish linens are lovely painted depictions of the four seasons; the tree branches represent Spring in my room. But each quarter is unique - a surprise awaits upon arrival to see which one of nature's seasons will be beautifying your suite. The sensitivity to the seasons is an integral part of the Japanese belief system of Shinto, which is evident in their art and cultural celebrations.
Kyoto is one of a few areas in the country with four distinct and photogenic seasons; to look out the window and admire the vegetation, it's evident that plants bloom all year here - bright green Summers, vibrant Autumn foliage, snow-tipped trees of Winter and the famed cherry blossoms of Spring. Inside this sleek sanctuary, marble, granite, metal, wood, and glass collide. The double vanity, in-mirror bathroom TV, Toto bidet, and bath/rain shower combination are enclosed with double glass doors to create a large steam room option. The perfect extra touch, hanging in the closet, is a yukata. The lightweight cotton version of a kimono is the perfect accessory for lounging in this comfy accommodation.
Japanese proverb: Gou ni itte wa, gou ni shitagae
*Translation: Entering the village, obey the village
Or better, When in Rome, do as the Romans do. My mantra as I stepped out of my comfort zone, immersing myself in the country and culture. First, an introduction to the traditional ritual of Japan's bathing culture. Considered both for pleasure and purification, the tradition of the soothing ofuro (hot bath) and exhilaration of mizuburo (cold bath) was a treat. Prepared to be naked, following the etiquette, I sat on the low stool and washed my hair and body using the bucket and ladle before entering the large, stoned, and marble communal tub. In the U.S., bathing is synonymous with washing the body, but it's considered cleaning the spirit in Japan. The heat of the ofuro bath was calming and relaxing. After ten minutes, it was time to enter the cold bath. Both stimulating and invigorating once I girded myself with the challenge of transferring into the icy water. Ten minutes was too long to endure, so I eased myself back into the warm water again- #repeat. The process's health benefits are removing excess lactic acid, decreasing muscle soreness and swelling, and reducing fatigue.
I enjoyed another form of bathing: forest bathing. Hot springs' popularity throughout Japan for hundreds of years created the onsen baths, then later came the ofuro baths; however, with forest bathing, there is no water. Shinrin-yoku, or taking in the forest atmosphere, is a modern-day physiological and psychological exercise invented in the 1980s by a Japanese man, Dr. Qing Li. The idea of bathing in nature, escaping the congestion of the city, and inhaling the fresh air of the forest is the exact "park prescription" the doctor ordered. It's more than taking a hike; it's using your senses to take in all the beauty surrounding you, aligning body and mind. Health benefits include reducing stress hormones, activating the parasympathetic nerves, and improving immunity. My guide, Alex, taught me "komorebi" which is a feeling -walking through the forest in the morning when the day wakes up and the sun shines through the trees, rays of light kissing the ground. We climbed higher and higher to the top of Mt. Amidagamine. We discovered the mausoleum of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, once the son of a peasant, rising as a Samurai, Daimyo warlord, and famous unifier of Japan. As I slowly walk down the 500+ steps of the historical site, I breathe in the surroundings and serenity at the close of this forest bathing experience.
Steeped in history with its 600 shrines and 1600 temples, Kyoto's must-see list: Yasaka Shrine, one of the most famous in the city, the first imperial palace grounds and gardens, Fushimi Inari, one of the most visited spots in all of Japan with its 10,000 torii gates, and the beloved Kiyomizudera Temple, wholly made out of wood, not a single piece of metal or nail supports the structure, named after a sacred water fountain that grants anyone who drinks from it the gift of health and longevity— which I sipped from, a bonus gift from my visit. Other notable stops when visiting this cultural mecca: Philosopher's Path, Ginkaku-ji Temple, Kyoto National Museum, Sanjusangendo Temple, and the nearby traditional entertainment district of Gion, painted-faced Geiko (or Geisha) can still be seen making their way along the cobbled streets. No worries if you miss that stop; the Four Seasons hosts a Maiko (Geiko in training) two afternoons a week, where she performs two dances for a hushed audience of Hotel guests as they gaze upon her talents in the grand lobby. She graciously allows photos with her afterward.
Sightseeing + lots of stairs = spa day. That's an equation that makes perfect sense. The two levels of posh pampering, located in the sub-terrain levels of the property, are plush. The lowest level: exercise gym, studio, locker room with shower/bath as well as an impressive 65-foot pool & two whirlpools, lounge chaises beneath the water as well as lounge chairs on the deck partitioned for privacy, small squares cut into the surrounding granite walls have glowing faux candles to complete this restorative rendezvous. After taking advantage of the facilities, I venture to the spa level for my scheduled treatment.
The remarkable design and craftsmanship of the property are evident throughout the spa. The hand-adzed flooring with the artisan undulation of the dark hardwood gives a unique feeling as you walk. Using mixed textures; wood or stone treatments on every wall, bamboo benches, chiseled stone stand-alone sinks, fusuma screens, and accent walls with frosted glass combine aesthetically to create a perfect retreat, designed to maximize "Kutsurogi"- the Japanese art of relaxation. I'm greeted with tea while waiting for my therapist. My treatment: Enso Journey 240 minutes is a transition from motion to stillness with this exquisite signature experience. The first part begins with a stroll and meditation in the Shakusui-en pond garden, a serene sojourn that encourages self-reflection and digital detoxification. My guide, Miyuki, lights incense for me, with legs crossed, as I sit in the small covered structure open to the sights and sounds of the pond garden. Light rain gently falls as I soak in the moment's stillness.
The therapeutic journey continues with the introduction to my massage therapist, Yuko. As we walk down the hall, lantern-like light fixtures pave the way past treatment rooms; in front of some doors, a stone tied with rope lays in front, "sekimori-ishi "(barrier-keeper stone) that signals the space is occupied. We enter the "Sky" room, where I enjoy a foot bath of green tea and salt scrub with bamboo and charcoal essence. The body treatment uses Enso-inspired circular strokes to restore balance and create a state of profound calm. The oil used is the Four Seasons blend, original to Kyoto; I loved the Spring oil: sweet orange, lemon, Japanese Kuromoji, and sugi leaves, used for refreshing and uplifting. Next, the Japanese sake bath, great for detox, circulation, and anti-aging; sinking into the blissful bath in the private spa suite was a lovely follow-up to the calm massage. Following that, a heavenly green tea facial treatment that leaves skin purified, moisturized, and deeply revitalized. Lastly, I'm guided to the tranquil relaxation room, where a small platform bed with a pillow is waiting, framed on three sides with a drawn curtain for privacy. Tea is served, placed earnestly on the single step outside the cozy cocoon for me to sip and savor, a perfect place to revel in the remaining residuals of this very relaxing ritual.
Dining at the Four Seasons Kyoto is a pleasure, and you need not leave the premises for exceptional international and Japanese dining options. Sushi Wakon, a 10-seat restaurant, is top of the list for upscale cuisine. The magic begins at an 8-metre-long Japanese cypress wood sushi counter crafted by a celebrated artisan over 200 years ago. Flown daily from Tokyo's famous Toyosu market, high-quality ingredients are carefully prepared authentic edomae-style into delectable creations while you watch and admire the talented chefs.
The Brasserie, headed by Chef Ryuji Koga, marries French cuisine techniques with Japanese ingredients, creating his unique culinary stamp. Dine by firelight in front of the stone fireplace, outside on the expansive terrace overlooking the pond garden, or in carved wooden alcoves for a more private experience. With seasonal-set menus, al-a-carte favorites, or just a shared dessert, an evening at The Brasserie is time well spent. The breakfast buffet is another delectable decision, where you can dabble in the traditional fare of made-to-order eggs, charcuterie, salads, fruit, and fresh-baked pastries or dive into the extensive Asian buffet for a conventional Kyoto breakfast. Or try a little of both- you won't be disappointed.
Four Seasons Kyoto is a special place within a special country. According to their readers' 2023 Travel and Leisure magazine poll, Kyoto ranked number two as the favorite city to visit in Asia, citing the cultural richness, the friendliness of the people, and its innate beauty. Those sentiments are echoed within the walls of the Four Seasons property, traditional aesthetics with modern luxury, and a team of happy and helpful staff, all surrounding a lovely 800-year-old pond garden.
Author Matthew Tobin Anderson has shared, "There's an ancient saying in Japan that life is like walking from one side of infinite darkness to another, on a bridge of dreams. They say that we're all crossing the bridge of dreams together. That there's nothing more than that. Just us, on the bridge of dreams." Before catching my Shinkansen train out of Kyoto, I revisit the pond garden one last time, the heart of the Hotel, walking reverently on the tempered glass bridge arched over the rippling water; it feels a bit like a dream~ a bridge of dreams, in this enchanting old capital city.