An Unexpected Treasure
The Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas
by Brandi Brower, Travel Editor
Some like the aisle, but I prefer the window. The flight attendant announced we needed to prepare for landing. Once you've "ensured that your seat is in the upright and locked position," you open up the sash on the airplane's oval window, and there it is -the blue. This gorgeous blue water has beckoned you from your snowbound reality. You can't help yourself; you grab your phone to capture the moment, a bird's eye view of the Virgin Islands archipelago. Upon approaching Lindberg Bay, about to touch down on the runway 10/28, the island watercolors become even more crystalized and vibrant. It's a significant change from Winter white. Landing at Cyril E. King Airport, I'm officially in the Virgin Islands. It's my first time here; I was a virgin to visiting the Virgin Islands. They say you never forget your first time... well, let's see.
St. Thomas is called the gateway to the Leeward Islands. The capital of the U.S.V.I. territory, Charlotte Amalie, is located here, and the capital's harbor is in the crater of the long-dormant volcano that formed the island. St. Thomas has the largest population, although St. Croix is geographically larger. The U.S. Virgin Islands consist of St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix, with neighboring British Virgin Islands 20-30 miles away. We board a taxi van with other tourists for the 45-minute drive to the Red Hook area to the far eastern side of the island. The nickname for St. Thomas is "Rock City" for a good reason. It's rugged and hilly terrain, which we discovered along our adventurous ride along the steep, winding, two-lane route. The residents drive on the left side of the road, which adds an extra thrill to the journey. We arrive to drop off half of our riders at the popular ferry terminal before our stop, our destination, The Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas.
The architecture strikes me as we pull up to the circular drive. The classic Italian features are surprising in the heart of the Caribbean, with the grand columns, arched walkways, and terracotta accents. The hotel originally opened in 1991 as the Grand Palazzo Hotel, which fits with the aesthetic upon arrival. The Ritz-Carlton took over the property in 1996, transforming most of the resort but keeping the Grand Palazzo Building as the main lobby focal point, a timeless signature structure. Greeted with cold towels, a welcoming rum punch, and the breezes from the Great Bay through the open-air vestibule, we are quickly checked in and then escorted via golf cart by Prince, a team member with an abundance of personality, who showed us the lay of the land before helping us get situated into our room.
After the devastating wrath of Hurricane Irma in 2017, the 180-room property, underwent a $100-million-dollar renovation before reopening in 2020. Using the region's natural beauty as inspiration, the design team created an elegant yet relaxed escape for those seeking a peaceful retreat on the quiet side of the island. Our King room was on the top floor of one of the six four-story buildings on the resort side of the property. All buildings are distinguished in floral names alphabetically; we were in Camellia. Six additional buildings are on the residence side of the 15-acre property, and the main lobby palazzo and amenities are centrally located, delineating the two. All accommodations enjoy ocean views and relaxing balconies to appreciate the beautiful secluded Bay. Notable features: double sinks, stand-alone soaking tub, generous walk-in shower, white oak wall treatment surrounding room, comfortable couch, marble top dresser, table with chairs for in-room dining convenience, woven light fixture, and patio furniture, all come together with soothing warm earth tones, beachy neutrals coordinated throughout.
Our first stop, 32 Points Shoppe onsite, is the perfect place to pick up any items you left at home, or in our case, beach attire until the airport locates your husband's luggage. After selecting some attractive resort wear with Ritz-Carlton insignia, we venture to Sails for a late lunch/early dinner. Casual beach fare and breezes off the Bay are just what we needed to take our mind off of the missing luggage. Sails is an open-air eatery under the giant white "sails" canopy tenting and a full-service bar. We enjoy our catch-of-the-day fish tacos with pickled onions, pineapple salsa, and chipotle aioli, and the service with a smile from Shaniqua. While guests slowly leave their beach chairs to go up to their rooms, we head down to stick our feet into the white sand and soak in the ebb and flow of the cerulean waters. The sun is setting behind us, and the purple and pink rose color hues, the cotton candy sky, is a special warm welcome courtesy of Mother Nature to this beautiful island.
On the first full day, we start our morning with a quick bite at the Southwind Trading Post, a small building with many grab-and-go offerings, fresh pastries, Virgin Island Coffee Roasters, juices, breakfast sandwiches, and smoothies. It has sandwiches and salads for lunch, and I take note of the frozen yogurt and refreshing shakes as an afternoon treat. We decided to spend our first full day on the water's edge, meeting team member Danley, the hardest-working guy on the beach. He sets us up with a perfect spot under the sea grape trees, a great place for two pasty white people who need protection from too much sun too early. The two large trees are the perfect shade; our beach loungers are between the tree trunks; visually, they act as a picture frame for our view of St. John and Cruz Bay in the distance. I read, relaxed, and enjoyed tropical drinks and lunch for the first few hours. We made friends with a big Iguana, we named Iggy, until we didn't give him any of our french fries, so he left. The tranquility of the Great Bay is calling us, so we make our way up the beach to the The Ritz-Carlton Aquatic Center. A setup for success for all things aquatic: stand-up paddle boards, floating rafts, Hobie cats, kayaks, and snorkel gear are all complimentary. Scuba diving can also be arranged for a fee. We take advantage of the kayaking to work off a few calories from our meals; we should have shared our fries with Iggy.
Despite our efforts to stay in the shade and apply the resort's complimentary sunscreen several times, our winter white bodies couldn't handle the Caribbean rays. So, after a beautiful beach day, we decided to enjoy our comfortable accommodations, choosing showers, cozy robes and slippers, and yummy choices from the resort's dine-in menu. When ordering, I was told precisely when our food would arrive, and it was a few minutes early. I loved the personalized service. When I mentioned that we were sunburned, they sent up some aloe vera as a bonus with our meals. That personal attention took the sting out of our uncomfortable situation.
Our late start leads to us enjoying our first meal of the day at Coconut Cove, which is open for lunch and dinner. This restaurant focuses on the Caribbean's distinct flavors: freshly caught fish, lobster, and local specialties. It has a full-service bar as well. The come-as-you-are atmosphere gives the island vibe we were hoping for. We share the Island Coconut Shrimp appetizer and the West Indies Chicken Wrap. Our waitress, Carrisa, was a delight, sharing information about the island where she spent most of her young life. The open-air eatery, located on the North side of the property, is adjacent to the residences of The Ritz-Carlton Club St. Thomas, where resort guests can access the three additional swimming pools and two jacuzzi hot tubs. As inviting as the amenities are, we choose to walk back to our side of the resort for our first pool day.
The grounds on the property are lush, with flowering plantings and beautiful palms blowing in the breeze. Unlike other tropical islands I've experienced, St. Thomas has more of an arid condition, with xeric scrub; unlike the naturally lush tropics of some Hawaiian islands, the terrain reminded me more of the Mexican coastline. However, The Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas has created a lovely landscaped oasis on the island's East side. The 125-foot infinity-edge pool, Jacuzzi, zero-entry pool, splash pad, and family pool with a waterslide are in the heart of the lush landscape. There were sounds of giggles and laughter of children with their parent/s as they splashed and played in this perfect, family-friendly location. Every time I walked on the path past the popular water features, I wished my grandchildren were with me to enjoy the fun. The two of us selected the relaxation of the main pool, where we floated over to the infinity edge, rested our arms on the pool coping, and gazed out at the gorgeous vista of the beautiful secluded Bay, the cloudless blue sky and the verdant sister island of St. John not so far away. With many cabanas dotting the aquatic acre, we could have rented one that offered plenty of shade, fans, a mini-fridge, a large-screen TV, and a dedicated attendant for our every need, a tranquil hideaway. But we chose two comfy pool loungers with an umbrella and planted ourselves there for the rest of the day. Pool attendant Deshan passed by, offering yummy snacks; it was chocolate chip cookies today. *Note to self: Must bring grandchildren here next time.
The Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas has many amenities that are fun for all ages. The water sports and pool are the main focal points; however, there are two onmi-synthetic tennis courts, with complimentary racquets and ball hoppers, a basketball hoop, a 24-hour gym with instructor-led fitness classes like Cardio Blast, Beach Boot Camp, and Mai Chi, to help you work off the poolside cookies they serve you, for the golf enthusiasts there is a Topgolf Swing Suite, which has a simulator bay to help you with your swing, with other virtual games as well. The Ritz Kids Club is located next to the cute Southwind Trading Post, steps away from the pool area; a great program with planned activities daily for kids, gaming consoles, crafts, puzzles, and games to entertain children—an excellent option for parents needing a respite from the high energy of their little ones.
U.S.V.I. has a rich history as a haven for pirates and privateers. Its strategic location, geography, proximity to important trade routes, and numerous harbors and coves for hiding plunder made the region attractive to ambushers, particularly in the "Golden Age of Piracy" 1690 - 1730. Long gone are the days of Blackbeard and Captain Kid striking fear in the hearts of sea merchants and sailors alike.
Today, the safe harbor of St. Thomas is a destination for 1-3 cruise ship dockings per day almost year-round, a very popular stop for the cruise ship industry, the most lively island of the three, known for its duty-free shopping and attractions. At the sprawling property of The Ritz-Carlton, we are removed from all the action on the island's west side, and the alabaster sandy beach of the resort's quiet cove is the safe harbor we are looking for. There's no walking the plank, just wading through crystal waters; instead of plundering, there's plenty of pampering by the friendly staff, no pillaging, just peace.
I signed up for specific pampering via the The Ritz-Carlton Spa, St. Thomas. The spa features 11 treatment rooms and a full-service salon. My treatment was scheduled to be a stress relief massage, but my masseur, Brian, discovered some extreme tension in my shoulder and worked to relieve the pain. The expertise and professionalism impressed me enough to encourage my husband to schedule a massage, which he did.
The elegant, Italian-inspired restaurant, Alloro, rests elevated above the beach, bistro lights strung in the courtyard upon entering, the sun is setting, and this Sicilian-styled dining room is a compliment to the Grand Palazzo building that houses the lobby. We're escorted to a table that is open air to the emerging moonlight, the sound of the lapping water, and the smell of the Italian herbs and freshly baked bread, and I question why we have waited three days for this fine dining experience. We started with Salumi e Formaggi, then onto the Insalata, sharing the delicious Burrata, and finally, the Primi Piatti; my husband selected Tagliatelle with Scallops in Alfredo Sauce, and my dish of choice, Rigatoni with Green Peas and Braised Sicilian Pork Ragout. The excellent service and romantic atmosphere enhanced the culinary offerings, and we decided to come back the next night for our last meal of the trip.
On our last full day, we went to Bleuwater, open just for breakfast. You can order off the menu, ala carte, or savor the start of your day with the full buffet. Enticed by the latter: an omelet station, pastries, a selection of breakfast staples, charcuterie, and seasonal fruits; in the end, I ordered a delectable offering of House Made Croffle, a croissant waffle with Nutella and strawberries, which genuinely made me smile. My husband stayed in the healthy lane with Avocado Toast and two poached eggs on sourdough.
After the sumptuous fresh start, we go down to the beach, fueled for one more day of fun. Snorkeling is a priority; with the sweet service of a staff member, we stake out our perfect spot to reside beachside and then make our way to the Aquatic Center for snorkel and fins to explore the life beneath the sea. If you want an enhanced snorkeling experience, The Ritz-Carlton has the answer: The Lady Lynsey II. The 65-foot catamaran has become a visual staple, majestically moored in front of the resort. Daily sails and excursions are tailored experiences for guests to reserve. The luxury catamaran offers many choices in the length of tour and activities: sunset sail, dinner cruise, turtle snorkel sail, or eight-hour tours to Jost Van Dyke or the Baths of Virgin Gorda, to name a few. An adventure on the high seas that explores the breathtaking beauty of the Virgin Islands.
As we watch our last sunset, knowing that tomorrow brings another day and a plane ride home, I'm happy with my first visit to the U.S. Virgin Islands, confident it will not be my last. In the words of the popular fictional Pirate of the Caribbean, Jack Sparrow, "Not all treasure is silver and gold, mate." Wise words from a silver screen scalawag and a reminder that life itself is to be treasured. Tucked away in the safe harbor of Great Bay, The Ritz-Carlton, St. Thomas is an unexpected treasure.