Vienna Waits for You
The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna
A Three-Part Series, By Senior Travel Editor, Brandi Brower
There's always the excitement of anticipation that comes with travel, but when you step off the train and you've arrived at your destination, the adrenaline is off the charts. My second city stop on my Golden Triangle of Central Europe is Vienna. Expectations for Vienna were high, despite my lack of knowledge of the Austrian capital. The only actual reference I had to Austria was "The Sound of Music." The only Viennese reference is an old Billy Joel song, "Vienna." When asked about the song's meaning, the artist is quoted as saying: "... slow down, look around you, and have some gratitude for the good things in your life. That's what Vienna represented to me." The musician has a personal connection to Vienna and uses the city as a metaphor in the 1970s pop song. I decided to take Billy's advice when exploring the "City of Music" - by slowing down, taking a good look around, and having a grateful heart for this fantastic life experience.
Vienna
The first thing I notice is how quiet it is; most cars, trucks, and buses are electric, and even the motorcycles are quiet. The only sounds of transport you hear are the clip-clopping of the horse-drawn carriages. What a charming change from the city sounds I'm accustomed to. As my cab driver familiarizes me with the layout of his town, explaining Ringstrasse, or Vienna's Ring, the popular name for a series of wide boulevards that encircle almost the entire center of the city. It's approximately 4 miles long and features more historical sights along its edges than any other road in the world. As my cab passes by one white building after another, with ornate facades and gorgeous architecture, I'm enthralled at first blush with this enchanting place.
When I arrive at my destination, I step out of the car and notice the cobblestone street beneath my feet, a feature prevalent in the city center that contributes to its historic charm. As I look up, I see the iconic logo, The Ritz-Carlton, on the stylish awning dripping with chandelier-like crystals, signaling the class within. Every building in this metropolis looks like a palace, and this hotel is no exception. It comprises four separate palaces and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The hotel, the Habsburgs, and the history are all intertwined. Ring Boulevard is known as The City of Palaces because the city center of Vienna, until Franz-Joseph acceded to the throne in 1848, was the center of nobility.
The mid-to-late 19th century witnessed vigorous construction activity. On the Ring, architects made their mark, and "Ringstrassen architecture" was born. The Gutmann Family, the rags-to-riches story of coal merchants, whose influence and money built the Palais Gutmann in 1871, in hopes of being part of the royal society. Four palaces, primarily used by the Viennese nobility and bourgeoisie, were formally independent buildings that were creatively merged into a single structure, creating The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna. An original neoclassical marble staircase runs through the center of the building, original woodcarvings, and a Presidential Suite featuring an original frescoed ceiling and chandeliers, all Palais relics that underscore the period's significance. The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna, a historical hideaway in the heart of the city, whispers of a bygone era and echoes the luxury of 19th-century Vienna.
Passing through the revolving door, the marble-floored lobby impresses; a large tapestry hangs from the high ceiling to the left, and a conversation seating area is to the right, with the main focal point being numerous large-scale photographic works that reflect the city's imperial past and contemporary Viennese culture. The black-and-white pictures serve as an aesthetic metaphor for the hotel itself, where the conscious blend of modern luxury and traditional elegance coexists.
I step down into the reception area, noticing the artistic wooden slats; spiral decorative elements frame the space. As Matthew greets me, I'm met with a surprising Irish accent. I'm offered a cool towel and drink before he escorts me to my room on the 7th floor. One of 200 rooms, the first element of décor that strikes me is the walnut wood finishing in an interesting paneled pattern as I walk in. At the other end of the room, a cozy bench seat anchors the space, flanked by two windows. A substantial walk-in closet, a black-and-white marble bathroom with a towel heater, Diptyque bath products, and a tub are standouts. Half-frosted glass doors with a leaf motif provide privacy in both the water closet and the shower, where you find both handheld and waterfall shower heads. The 409-square-foot Deluxe room options are the largest standard hotel rooms in the city.
Still, if you prefer a more luxurious experience, the property offers several specialty suites to suit your needs. The number one being the Presidential Suite, the hotel's grandest, spanning over an impressive 2,045 square feet. A fully equipped kitchenette, a personal library, two separate living and sleeping areas with a dressing room and a makeup table, and two deluxe marble bathrooms to match. The substantial ceiling height necessary to accommodate the aforementioned frescoed art, an original masterpiece by August Eisenmenger, depicts the twelve months, each represented by an individual angel. Distinct design elements seamlessly weave the beauty of the past and the present, creating a sensational space.
I also found the food to be sensational. Beginning with my dinner at Dstrikt Steakhouse. The distinguished restaurant set a high bar for cuisine and ambiance. Entering through an arched alcove flanked by marble pillars, we are seated at a table with an open door to the nightlife buzz on Schubertring Blvd. The highly trained wait staff were on their game this evening as both Nina and Sindy listened intently to our likes and dislikes, making excellent suggestions, all while being professional and pleasant. Highlights: sourdough bread made on the premises with rosemary butter, amuse-bouche of bacon and onion jam tart and slider, 7 oz filet Australian beef, cooked to perfection on the eatery's Josper Grill with its 300° Celsius that gives their steaks a distinct smoky edge, the chimichurrie sauce addition brought a flavorful heat, the green beans with bacon as well as the truffled fries made the perfect sides, rounding out the extraordinary foodee experience, the hotel's famous cheesecake for dessert. If I were to savor a last meal before I die, this may be the one I'd request.
Dstrikt Steakhouse is also the hotel's restaurant for breakfast, where I enjoyed the sun streaming in through the windows while partaking of the daily breakfast buffet. Out of the revolving door to explore the "City of Music," a moniker for many reasons, Vienna, as the imperial capital of the Habsburg Empire, was a prestigious and wealthy center for the arts. Many famous composers, such as Mozart, Beethoven, Haydn, Schubert, and Strauss, have lived and worked in Vienna. It is also the birthplace of the waltz. The Vienna Ball Season begins in November and ends in the first part of March, featuring over 450 balls and 2,000 hours of dancing; it's a scene not to be missed. Nothing to wear, can't waltz? Fortunately, The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna, has thought of everything if you wish to whirl, from dancing lessons to gown and tuxedo rentals. (Note to self: Return to Vienna for ball season.)
As we waltz our way through the cobblestone streets of the Ringstrauss, we are overwhelmed by the ornate buildings, beautiful facades, sculptures, fountains, statues, clock towers, and cathedrals. Everywhere you look, in every direction you turn, there is incredible architecture. We need energy to sustain us.
"Where's the fire, what's the hurry about?
You'd better cool it off before you burn it out
You've got so much to do
And only so many hours in a day" -Billy Joel
We take a much-needed pause at two famed spots for must-haves when in Vienna. The Central Cafe for a traditional Viennese coffee, followed by a sit-down at Demel for a sachertorte, a famous Austrian chocolate cake with apricot jam and chocolate glaze, and a Kaiserschmarrn, a fluffy shredded pancake served with plum compote. Just the sweetness we need to keep going. We weave our way through the streets, appreciating the Hofburg Palace, the Vienna State Opera House, and the Burgtheater, one impressive structure after another. We make our way back to The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna, to take in the sunset at the Atmosphere Rooftop Bar. A popular spot for both hotel guests and locals who wish to inhale the incredible panoramic views of the city from the 8th-floor outdoor haunt.
Along with a food menu of both sweet and savory items to complement the signature cocktails, wine offerings, and the special champagne campaign with Perrier-Jouët, the terrace team brings creativity to new heights, literally. A few examples: In June, a Formula 1 race car was hoisted by crane to the 8th-floor bar in celebration of the Austrian Grand Prix. To celebrate Vienna's famous Christmas Market, the popular outdoor lounge doesn't just serve cocktails; it also hoists several gondolas up to the transformed Winter terrace. Cozy compartments for couples to gather, enjoy views of the snow-covered city below when the skyline shines brightest, and savor mulled wine, raclette, Buchteln, and more within the heated ski gondolas. (Note to self: Return to Vienna for Christmas markets.)
After the sun sets, we set out to dine at a local restaurant to enjoy a traditional Viennese meal. We walked to Waldviertlerhof in the 5th district. The eatery is an institution in Vienna for authentic Austrian cuisine, established in 1842, where we dined in the garden on traditional Wiener Schnitzel with cranberry sauce and a side of potatoes. To sit at an establishment where composer Johann Strauss, the "Father of the Viennese Waltz," could have visited, to enjoy an Austrian dish originally from the Italian region, introduced to Austria by Emperor Franz Joseph I, was a historical treat—tasty, too! Wúnderbar!
Also known as the "City of Dreams," Vienna is primarily so named because it was home to Sigmund Freud, the founder of psychoanalysis, who explored the world of dreams. The appellation is appropriate for its cultural heritage, opulent architecture, grand palaces, and "dreamlike" atmosphere for its visitors.
"You've got your passion, you've got your pride
But don't you know that only fools are satisfied?
Dream on, but don't imagine they'll all come true
When will you realize Vienna waits for you?” -Billy Joel
A city full of grandeur and wonder, it does feel like a dream. My dream adventure continues thanks to the skilled concierge, Oliver, who purchased our tickets in advance for several historical highlights of the Habsburg hub. I stopped by the hotel's Dstrikt Steakhouse for a grab-and-go breakfast box, which a kind wait staff member, Natalia, helped me with. Then I'm trotted off to my first stop, the Sisi Museum and the famous Lipizzaner horses. What is that, you may ask? The Spanish Riding School is a historic institution renowned for its classical dressage and white Lipizzaner horses. I had a beautiful seat for the morning training session at the Winter Riding School, a Baroque-style arena where the 450-year-old tradition is staged. The equine showcase is held at one of the most beautiful riding halls in the world, which, combined with the uniformed riders, classical music, and the horses' balletic movements, after years of meticulous training, is truly inspiring. The whole experience genuinely moved me.
So many palaces, so little time! We walk to the Belvedere Palace, housing one of the world's largest collections of Austrian art. I came to see "The Kiss," Austrian artist Gustav Klimt's most famous piece. But left feeling culturally enriched after viewing additional paintings, such as his "Judith I" and "Sunflower," as well as other works by Monet and Van Gogh. After walking the palace grounds, we head to the Naschmarkt, Vienna's largest outdoor market, featuring over 120 food stands with diverse international and regional food offerings. This vibrant market is a great stop for a quick bite in this walkable city.
We catch the U-Bahn, Vienna's metro, out to the Schönbrunn Palace. The UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the country's most important historical monuments and a major tourist attraction. The 1441-room Baroque Palace and vast gardens were the principal summer residence for Habsburg rulers for over 300 years. Famous resident Empress Elisabeth "Sisi," a favorite of the Austrian people, lived there. Franz Joseph, the longest-reigning Emperor of Austria, was born at Schönbrunn and spent a great deal of his life there. He died there, at the age of 86. Marie Theresa famously gave birth to 16 children; ten lived to adulthood, and the most infamous daughter was Marie Antoinette, and her sad demise. Neapolitan Bonaparte, a young Mozart, and John F. Kennedy have all visited the palace throughout its history -oh, if only the walls could talk.
After seeing so much royalty, it's only right that we get a little royal treatment. With our long day of walking, The Ritz-Carlton Spa was a tempting option upon our return to the hotel. A little late in the day to schedule a luxurious spa treatment, a facial, a massage, or both sounded perfect. Even just a sauna and a swim in the largest indoor pool in Vienna would rejuvenate and reset. We decided to spend our last evening enjoying a final supper. We stop into the hotel's roaring twenties speakeasy, D-Bar. The "D" stands for discovery, and there's much to discover with the sophisticated mixes, fine spirits, and inspiring ceremonies served up on this night by Tomas and Aida. Whether you partake in the classic setting or outside overlooking the energy of the boulevard, you quickly realize why it's been repeatedly named the best hotel bar in Austria. Prost! (Or, Cheers! As I picked up a little German.)
Pastamara - Bar con Cucina, a Southern Italian cuisine, is found in the heart of Vienna. Two-Michelin-starred chef Ciccio Sultano conceptualized the restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna, patterned after the colors and flavors of his hometown of Ragusa in Sicily. As explained, when you're from Italy and you go home, your family doesn't hug you and say, "How are you?" They hug you and ask, "Did you eat something?" This authentic Italian food is the hug you've been waiting for. Stefania, the assistant restaurant manager, with passion, guides us through the culinary choices. Favorite flavors of the fine dining event: tortellini, Tuma Persa cheese, hazelnut, black truffle, chanterelles, aged balsamic vinegar, and sole, served with Franciacorta sauce and seasonal vegetables. It is no surprise to find that it's included in the Michelin Guide for Austria and ranked #26 among the top 50 Italian restaurants outside of Italy. Chef Francesco Milicia personally came to our table to ensure everything was to our satisfaction. His goal is "A delicate harmony of flavors that tells the story of Italian food tradition." Goal achieved.
The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna, hotel manager, Ned Capeleris, was ever present. In my brief stay, I saw him three separate times, always enthusiastic and engaging. He shared the Carlton Credo with me. Every employee carries a pocket-sized version of the company's mission statement, which notes, "We are ladies and gentlemen, serving ladies and gentlemen." A list of 20 "Ritz Carlton Basics" listed on the card serves as a reminder of their commitment to exceptional service. It's apparent that Mr. Capeleris loves his leadership role, and he practices the credo that he preaches.
"And you know that when the truth is told
That you can get what you want, or you can just get old
You're gonna kick off before you even get halfway through,
Why don't you realize Vienna waits for you?" -Billy Joel
My visit to The Ritz-Carlton, Vienna, and the "City of Dreams" was just that, a dream. American philosopher, Henry David Thoreau, reminds us all, "Yesterday is but today's memory and tomorrow is today's dream."
Vienna waits for you.