Psst…I’ve Got a Secret
Secret Bay Dominica
by Brandi Brower, Travel Editor
I try not to do research before my travel destinations. Truth be told, I don't even like to see photos of the luxury resorts or hotels before arriving. There are so few surprises in life that I enjoy the anticipation and pure joy that comes with the big reveal. My most recent surprise didn't disappoint~ let me introduce you to Dominica.
In the beginning, I was confused, as I had never heard of the country before, a Windward island nation in the Lesser Antilles Archipelago located in the southeastern Caribbean Sea. What is often confused with the Dominican Republic, in name only, differs significantly in size, language, and historical influences. Dominica's official language is English, with French Creole, due to historical French influence. The population is significantly smaller, around 70,000, compared to the D.R.'s population of over 10 million, and it feels small, at times, like you are the only person on Earth. More on that later.
As I sat on the plane, just over a three-hour flight from Miami, I conversed with a woman sitting next to me who turned out to be born and raised on the island, currently working in Canada. I told her the farthest south I'd ventured in the Caribbean had been to the island of Nevis. I shared how much I loved the people there, the striking volcanic peak, and the lushness of the West Indies destination. She began to giggle. "What?" I asked. She motioned for me to raise the window shade as the flight attendant announced our initial descent into the Douglas-Charles Airport. I raised the blind as our jet hovered over mountainous terrain, passing over several volcanic peaks, banking to the left to line up for approach. The visual looked like the captivating helicopter scene in the film Jurassic Park. "This is lush," she grinned. "This is my country."
Her country is Dominica, known as the Nature Isle of the Caribbean, due to its pristine natural environment, mountains, rivers, waterfalls, and rainforests. Most of the territory of this country is virgin, with a tropical forest that is the only Caribbean World Heritage Site named by UNESCO. A few fun facts: With nine active volcanoes, Dominica holds the distinction of having the world's highest concentration of volcanoes, which contributes to its beautiful black-sand beaches. Dominica is home to numerous waterfalls, with 12 notable and easily accessible, and over 365 rivers on the island, a river for each day of the year. The gorgeous flora and fauna thickly cover every inch that isn't H2O. The very definition of lush is this hidden gem in the West Indies.
My driver, Frank, collects me for the hour-long drive along the very hilly and winding road to my final destination. Like the woman on the airplane, Frank was born and raised but has never left his homeland. I also interviewed him about life on Dominica. "What's the best-kept secret about your country?" I ask. "The cuisine is indigenous to us; we enjoy what we grow naturally." After a pleasant conversation, I end with one last query: "What would you want the world to know about Dominica?" "That's an easy one," he chuckles, "Look around us. The natural beauty. I see it every day and I'm still fascinated by it." His answer timed perfectly as we pulled into the well-manicured gated entrance. As I exit the van and head to the open-air Mouben Welcome House, I'm greeted by Dianna with a chilled lavender-infused towel and a cold Lemongrass and Lime drink. "Welcome to Secret Bay!"
The surprise, the big reveal is Secret Bay Resort and Residences, a private retreat nestled, literally tucked within, the very verdant, lush landscape on the northwest coast of the island. I'm introduced to my dedicated villa host, Elena, who assists with my bag onto the Caribbean's longest funicular, ascending 400 linear feet, accessing the villa enclaves: Clifftop, Summit, and Hillside. It's a great introduction to the lay of the land, a literal birds-eye view as the energy-efficient open-air carriage climbs up the steep incline, allowing passengers to take in the scents, sights, and sounds of the rainforest.
My flight was a bit delayed; as a result, I was rushed to the official launch event. It was humbling to find the celebrated staff, distinguished guests, and members of the press all in their seats awaiting one last, lone member of the media to arrive. Me. A humbling moment to keep the Prime Minister of Dominica, Honorable Roosevelt Skerrit, waiting. The popular P.M., governing the country for over 21 years, has been a supportive force in the success of Secret Bay. He has championed the boutique eco-luxury resort, standing in solidarity with the founder's vision. The ceremony marks the beginning of a new chapter for the special property, the official ground-breaking of nine Waterfront Villas. Prime Minister Skerrit spoke of the Citizenship By Investment program, "For those seeking more than just a vacation home, Dominica stands out as a long-term sanctuary; safe, sustainable, and serene." Wait, what? Can I own a piece of this paradise? The answer is yes. Secret Bay offers both whole and fractional ownership opportunities with its villas. An investment not only gives you a desirable destination to escape to, but a second passport as well. The Prime Minister continued, "Dominica is not trying to become like everywhere else, we are not chasing mass tourism nor will we allow unchecked development to erode what makes this island so rare." The Prime Minister noted, "We are cultivating a niche; luxury rooted in nature, in culture, and community," explaining they are charting a course that balances economic opportunity with ecological responsibility. Honorable Skerrit concluded his remarks, saying, "This is how we will protect our identity, uplift our people, and ensure that generations to come can inherit a land that is still unspoiled, still extraordinary, and still Dominica."
I've only been on the island for a little over two hours, and I'm already inspired. The all-villa retreat has a beautiful origin story, as told by proprietors Gregor Nassief and his wife, Sandra Vivas. Gregor, as a young boy, fell in love with the property that Secret Bay is on. He grew up climbing the cliffs and exploring the land. As the boy became an adult, it took 20 years and seven different transactions to purchase the first five acres of land, which Secret Bay is on. Gregor shared his love of the land with his wife. As a wedding gift, Sandra's father, renowned Latin American architect Fruto Vivas, gifted the couple a design to build a home on the land. Sandra shares that her father isn't known for his architecture, but rather his "architenderness," reflecting her father's theory that a house is a space for human interactions but also a connection with nature. The tapestry of a love story: a boy and the land, a man and a woman, and a father for his daughter, woven together to create a slice of paradise for the world to embrace.
This passion project of mindful environmental awareness and "architenderness" has grown over the years, always preserving the ethos of low density, intimacy, and connection with the natural environment. The 50 acres of land are dotted with 23 strategically placed stand-alone villas, perfectly positioned so as not to disrupt the lush landscape, offering both panorama and privacy. The exclusivity of this escape is evident. Dare I share, I went skinny-dipping every day in my private plunge pool, with no thought that I'd be discovered. Most of us wanted a tree house when we were young. This villa feels like a treehouse for adults, with amenities you never imagined as a kid, but Secret Bay has reimagined everything.
The freestanding structures are more than a hotel suite; they are home. My hidden hideaway, "Zubuco," is the honeymoon villa layout, which would be my hilltop home away from home for the next few days. Elena, my villa host and personal concierge, handed me an iPhone, which enabled me via WhatsApp Messenger to text her with any/all requests. The handheld tech facilitated electric golf cart rides, reservations, and turn-down service; I even used it to request my packed lunch for my waterfall excursion- service with an emoji smile. Each villa offers breathtaking western views of the Caribbean Sea, a spacious terrace featuring covered outdoor dining and lounge areas, an infinity plunge pool, decking, outdoor shower, and a hanging duvet outdoor bed; it's not your grandpa's hammock. That's just the outdoor living space. Inside the villa, you'll find all the state-of-the-art amenities you could wish for, including a gourmet kitchen equipped with Siemens and Smeg appliances, a De'Longhi espresso & cappuccino coffee maker, a wine fridge, a fruit juicer, and a panini press. The aesthetic is biophilic design, an approach that seeks to connect people with nature in built environments. The vaulted ceiling, the natural light via numerous windows, and the entire interior are crafted with Guyanese hardwood. The white drapes, comforter, and cushions serve as an accent against the natural wood. Stylish bathrooms feature rainhead, handheld, and body spray jets, and for bathers, a large soaking tub. A convenient washer/dryer combo, Sonos wireless sound system, high-speed WiFi, and smart home technology, hand-crafted furnishings from Dominican Red Cedar by local artisans, and a 43" TV that you may never turn on because your childhood treehouse fantasy is now a reality at Secret Bay.
The Bwa Denn is the heart of the resort, where food, art, and community converge. This modern, minimalist space blends luxury with nature and sustainability. Not only does it house the restaurants, a full-service bar, tapas terrace, a kombucha microbrewery, and a gift shop, but it is also home to Gregor's extensive art collection of 100+ Caribbean and Latin American art pieces, serving as the inspiration for the interior design. The couple's mutual love of art brought them together. Sandra is an artist. Gregor purchased one of Sandra's pieces, and so their love story began. Gregor explains, "I have a very deep love for land, Sandra has a very deep love for architecture." It was a complete "accidental adventure" as their unified vision came together. They have melded their love of art, land, and architecture into Secret Bay.
The response to their "accidental adventure" has been overwhelming. The awards and accolades for this 6-star hotel are numerous, including being named the #1 or #2 resort in the Caribbean, Bermuda, and Bahamas category in Travel and Leisure's World's Best Awards for five of the last six years, ranking among the top 100 hotels worldwide. Secret Bay is also a Relais & Chateaux property, a prestigious association of luxury hotels and restaurants globally.
There are no tennis courts. No golf courses. If you're a pickleball enthusiast and have an itch to play, you're in a pickle. The idiom suggests that the country club clichés are not typical in Dominica. Nature is the playground for this getaway destination. It's a haven for those who love hiking, adventure, waterfalls, hot springs, diving, water sports, whale and dolphin watching, and canyoning adventures. With more than 300 miles of hiking trails, 365 rivers, and over 170 bird species, Dominica offers an unparalleled escape into nature.
The first adventure begins with our guide, Shevon, and a hike to Syndicate Falls. He points out plants and their medicinal properties, acts as a safety guide offering a hand when needed as we cross several rivers, and serves as an action photographer, capturing the moment as we swim in the lagoon and stand near the powerful spray of the 100-foot waterfall. Once back in the van, we enjoy our packed lunch of a chicken sandwich on homemade bread, fruit, and nuts provided by the resort, while we drive to our next stop, Portsmouth. The second-largest town on the island, located at the mouth of the Indian River, is where our following guide, Fire, takes us on his colorful dugout canoe, propelled by hand oars. A tranquil way to travel the wide river while the Captain Fire points out diverse wildlife among the mangroves, in addition to sites where scenes from the Pirates of the Caribbean movies were filmed. Last adventure of the day, we board a boat with an outboard motor that whisks us from the Indian River out to the ocean. As we speed along the Caribbean Sea, we can barely distinguish the rooftops of the Secret Bay resort, as it is so well blended in with its surroundings—a promise made by Gregor and Sandra to eachother that if they ever built something on this land, when you passed by and looked from the ocean, you couldn't see that anything. Promise kept. Our guide pulls the canoe up to a beautiful white sand beach, one that can only be accessed by boat. Its name is Secret Beach, and the genesis for the Secret Bay, the dream of a boy who once played along its shore.
As Fire zooms away, we are the only people on the Secret Beach. We swim in the arched cove, in the clear tepid water, all alone, with the natural rock formation called "drinking horse" as a backdrop. It looks like a massive horse drinking the ocean. When we are finished with our "blue lagoon" experience, we board the two kayaks that were pre-arranged by the beach staff to be waiting, and we paddle our way around the "drinking horse" to the resort beach on the other side.
After taking a swim in the resort's Gwiyavye' Lap Pool, we venture down to the lounge chairs to take in the view of Tibay Beach. Zamann Watersports Hut provides all non-motorized equipment. We enquire about snorkel gear, and a staff member, Kenny, asks if we want to explore a cave. Yes, please. There's a bounty of beautiful fish offshore. Kenny is very knowledgeable about the underwater wildlife, as he shows me how to hold a crab between my two fingers so I won't get pinched. He dives down deep to point out camouflaged fish that we couldn't see and warns us about the sea urchins and lion fish that we can see but should be cautious of. With the special water shoes and flashlights provided, we swim in the tight crevices. He coaches us on what to do next, guiding us as we dive down, holding our breath, and popping up on the other side in a bat cave. Hundreds of little creatures hanging upside down, some flying around, I was not a fan. But this is a special place, this Dominica. It's a place you can step out of your comfort zone, to swim near crashing waterfalls, hold a crab, and explore a bat cave. It sure beats hitting a tennis ball.
Feeling like we dominated Dominica, we deserved a delicious dining experience. Thanks to the newly appointed Executive Chef, Aurelien Bulgheroni, we were not disappointed. French-born, trained at Michelin-star restaurants in Monaco, and has been criss-crossing the globe with his culinary artistry until he landed at Secret Bay's Bwa Denn Kitchen. Guests can indulge in island-to-table cuisine, fresh vegetables sourced from the property and neighboring farms, hand-caught local fish, organic poultry, and farm-raised meats. The tasting menu on this night was French Creole-influenced. Gastronomy delights included: a plantain and cod fish croquette, marinated chicken with red bean puree and creole flavors, marinated mahi-mahi in a coconut curry sauce served with local vegetables, and for dessert, a pumpkin mascarpone pie served with cinnamon rum pineapple. As if the meal wasn't perfect enough, we dined al fresco, with low light pollution, the stars were our dinner guests as Chef Bulgheroni came to our table to ask if we were enjoying the evening. I complimented him on the incredible coconut curry sauce, and he thanked us with his beautiful French accent.
As if the day couldn't get any better, I retreated to my hilltop home, where my villa host had pulled the wispy drapes on the three walls of windows in the bedroom, turned down my bed, left fresh-cut fruit in the fridge, homemade yogurt and granola for my breakfast, and ironed my dress, I'm feeling a bit spoiled.
I wake up and gaze out at the foot of my bed, taking in the blue water and green flora that beckon me. I open the glass door and sit out on the comfy lounge chair, listening to the morning song of the birds. As if I'm Eve, in the Garden of Eden, without a fig leaf, I swim to the edge of the infinity pool. I'm entirely in the moment. Nothing is in my head except peace. This is what being completely disconnected feels like. What a gift.
A fantastic night's rest, I enjoy the delicious breakfast that Elena curated and left for me the night before, and I'm ready for another adventure. Today, our guide is Randall. He takes us to Ti Tou Gorge, where we swim through the narrow waterway, a fern gully, to the end, where there is a waterfall. We are all alone at this incredible spot, admiring the force of nature as the water pounds and echoes in the gorge. We swim back and ride the van to Trafalgar Falls. A small hike brings us to the base of the two falls, nicknamed Momma and Papa, because they are two distinct falls next to each other. Randall takes us to the village of Wotten Waven, well-known for its natural hot sulfur springs and mud pools. We hop from really hot to not as hot to a cold plunge, then repeat. We eat our box lunch while Randell takes us on a tour of the capital city of Roseau. We arrived back at the resort just in time for my spa treatment. The walk from the Mouben Welcome House, past the open-air fitness facility, up to the Gommier Spa is charming. Stone steps lead past the Bwa Mang Wellness Pavilion, up, up, up I continue until I arrive at a three-sided treatment room, built with Guyanese hardwood, another beautiful structure that rests among the trees and overlooks the ocean. What an incredible place to receive a relaxation massage. Rachel is my therapist, with 15 years of experience, and the sound of the rainforest and the waves lapping up on the shore, I was thoroughly entranced—another perfect day.
Secret Bay Resort is exceptional because the guests feel an authentic connection with the staff. Gregor believes that many Caribbean islands have a high level of overtraining in the hospitality industry, observing that some hotel staff exhibit personalities and kindness that are more trained than genuine. "Many of our staff have never worked in a hotel before. However, they possess a natural friendliness and sincerity, a personality that makes them more capable of taking care of guests than those with professional experience in the industry." Gregor continues, "The sincerity, authenticity, and kindness of the service trumps the perfection all the time." I experienced this authenticity several times during my stay. While dining at the restaurant, I experienced a painful cramp in my hamstring. Our sweet server, Gaielle, promptly came over to help as I was twisting in distress. She encouraged me to stand and maneuvered my leg, demonstrating a particular stretch until the affliction subsided. She explained that she is trained as a physical therapist. Her quick reaction to help me in that moment is the exact authentic kindness that Gregor is talking about. Every member of the staff I came in contact with — the wait staff, golf cart drivers, excursion guides, beach staff, and my villa host — each interaction and connection with me was genuine.
On my last morning, while showering, I opened the sliding door within the glassed enclosure, exposing the garden and growth outside the villa. As the water poured over my body, I saw two hummingbirds, drinking nectar, traveling from flower to flower, soaking in the sweetness that nature has provided them. Wrapped in my resort robe, I step out onto the deck, and nature shares one more parting gift — a brilliant rainbow, its colorful bands extending into the rainforest, arching over the villa rooftops, a positive and hopeful symbol. Dominica, Nature's Island, shared her bounty with me, and a sweet farewell.
There are so few surprises in life. But this island, this Secret Bay Resort, has been a memorable one. A secret reset, a place where few know, but those who do, cherish it.
Psst... I've got a secret. Pass it on.